Almost every piece of gold jewellery carries a tiny number such as 333, 585 or 750. It tells you how much pure gold is in the alloy. This guide explains what 585 gold actually means, how to recognise it and which gold colour might suit you.
What does 585 gold mean?
The number 585 is the fineness, given in parts per thousand: 585 out of 1000 parts are pure gold, so 58.5% fine gold. The remaining 41.5% consists of other metals such as silver, copper, zinc or palladium. In carats, 585 gold equals 14 carat. Pure gold is 24 carat; 14/24 works out at 58.3%, so the 585 stamp is in fact slightly above that.
Why use an alloy at all? Pure gold is very soft and scratches or bends easily in daily life. The added metals make it harder and also determine its colour.
333, 375, 585, 750 and 999 compared
| Stamp | Gold content | Carat | Typical properties |
|---|---|---|---|
| 333 | 33.3% | 8 ct | affordable, paler tone, common in Germany |
| 375 | 37.5% | 9 ct | similar to 333, the usual entry level in the UK |
| 585 | 58.5% | 14 ct | a good balance of gold content, colour and everyday durability |
| 750 | 75% | 18 ct | richer colour, higher material value, somewhat softer |
| 999 | 99.9% | 24 ct | fine gold, very soft, used for bars rather than jewellery |
Which hallmarks appear on gold jewellery?
On modern pieces you will usually simply see 585 inside a ring, near the clasp of a chain or on the bail of a pendant, often together with a maker's mark. In Germany the fineness mark is applied by the manufacturer rather than an assay office, but it must be accurate.
Older Soviet and Russian marks
If you have inherited jewellery from the former Soviet Union, you will often find the number 583. This was the standard fineness in the USSR for a long time and was typically stamped together with a star (with hammer and sickle). Russia moved to 585 in the 1990s; more recent Russian pieces usually show 585 alongside a woman's head wearing a kokoshnik. The exact marks vary by decade and assay office, so if you are unsure about an old piece, a local jeweller can test it for you.
Rose, red, yellow, white and bicolour gold: where does the colour come from?
In 585 gold the gold content is always the same. The colour comes from the other 41.5%:
- Red and rose gold contain a lot of copper. The more copper, the warmer and redder the tone; rose gold is the softer, pinker version.
- Yellow gold has a balanced mix of silver and copper and shows the classic golden colour.
- White gold is made with whitening metals such as palladium or, depending on the alloy, nickel. Because its natural tone is often slightly greyish, white gold is frequently rhodium-plated. This plating can wear over time and can be renewed by a jeweller.
- Bicolour (or tricolour) jewellery combines two or three gold colours in one piece.
A note for anyone with a nickel allergy: the EU sets strict limits on nickel release from jewellery. If your skin is sensitive, it is still worth asking about the alloy of a white gold piece before you buy.
Is 585 gold good for everyday wear?
Yes, 585 gold is widely considered very suitable for daily wear. Because it contains more alloy metals, it is generally harder and more scratch-resistant than 750 gold. 750 gold offers a richer colour and more gold, but is a little more delicate. That is why 585 is a popular choice for rings worn every day and for wedding rings. For cleaning tips, see our jewellery care guide.
Does 585 gold hold its value?
The material value of a piece depends on its fine gold content and on the current gold price, which can go up and down. 585 gold contains more gold than 333 but less than 750. When you buy jewellery you also pay for craftsmanship and design, so jewellery is first and foremost something to wear and enjoy rather than a financial investment. If you want to invest in gold, please seek independent advice.
Why is 585 gold so popular in Russia and Eastern Europe?
In the Soviet Union, 583 gold was the usual jewellery standard for decades, mostly in a warm red tone. Many families still associate this colour with weddings, baptisms and heirlooms, and the tradition continued after the switch to 585. Orthodox crosses and icon pendants are also very often worn in 585 red gold.
Discover 585 gold jewellery at IONN
At IONN you will find genuine 585 gold jewellery in red, yellow, white and bicolour gold:
- Rings for women and men – find your size with our ring size guide
- Gold chains and earrings
- Crosses and icon pendants
All orders are shipped insured with DHL from Germany.